I’m giving a profile z coaster a try. With the 45 deg selected on the slack cam. If you don’t rotate your cranks much while you ride. The multi slack cam will do the job. iI will be swapping out the slack cam for a 60 or a 75 deg cam soon. The reason i am running this hub is axle peg compatibility. The free coaster is a bonus. 135mm rear hubs that work with pegs. As far as i know. This is it. My hope EVO worked for a while. It did not like pegs very much. This Profile Z coaster is heavy and pricy. The non interchangeable cog is an issue. I will be doing a crank swap to get my gear ratio back in order.
The first weekend of riding was great. No issues. I thought i was going to run in free coaster mode for 20 minutes. Then swap out for the freewheel bushing. It was to much fun. This could be what MTB street/ Street trials has lacking . 135mm hub that likes pegs. Oh almost forgot. I know a few people that have had some issues with this design of free coaster. Its not like other free coasters. Its like it has to modes of operation. That back pedaling backwards turns it on or off. Other free coasters are always free coasters .I’m not saying that this was there issue. This hub truly feels like a free hub when in coaster mode. Unless you engage the coaster mode. Then you get that slacky engagement. Stay within the (45 deg in my case) backpedaling limit and it is perfect. Go a 1mm to far and instant tons of unexpected slack. That’s just how it works. I have to say i like it. It takes some time to get used to it. Be patient. You will be surprised at how much you rotate your feet unconsciously .
So after eight months of ownership. Here’s where were at. First I only have six months of riding time on these brakes I lost two months of riding time due to an injury. Which equates to 150 hours. I can’t translate it into miles. Skate park mileage is hard to calculate and my street riding loop is like 11 miles. Which would equate to an even less impressive number.
I noticed my brakes started feeling a little spongy. At first I thought maybe I had an air bubble or something. Then I buried the letter into my knuckle. That’s sort of sucked. It only took off a little chunk of skin so I kept riding . When I loaded up after the ride. I decide to take a quick peek to see what was going on. On the good side even with the crack. Neither one of the lever snapped off. Just fractured. I’ve been using Magura breaks since the early 90s. This is the first lever that has failed like this.
Issue number two. What I think is excessive wear on the back of the pistons. I noticed that my reach was cranked all the way out. Wasn’t sure what was going on. Now I know. Magura has warranteed the lever blades. I’m not sure what they’re going to do about the piston wear .
I thought the plastic master cylinder was going to be the weak link. I was surprised with cracking the brake levers. I have crashed on these levers a couple of times. Nothing severe though. Am I the average end-user? Probably not. Any form of trials riding is hard on equipment.
I still think they’re great breaks. My Shimano Zee brakes. I snapped 2 break calipers and one cracked master cylinder. I can’t even remember how many lever blades I broke. In that same amount of time.So to stress cracked levers and a couple of lightly worn Pistons. I guess I’m good with that.
So I’ve been riding this stem For 5 months. I can’t say enough good things about my Hussefelt handlebars. I have used some other Hussefelt Products and had good experiences. On the other hand. While this stem has done exactly what it was supposed to do. Hold my handlebars where I want them. From the first ride it creaked. Just a little bit at first. As time has gone I would call it disturbing now. I know the price is right on this stem. I don’t feel like it’s going to break (sort of mostly). Anytime soon anyway fingers crossed. I need to get like one more week out of it before my new stem comes. The creaking just does not inspire confidence. The fit up on the steer tube is little bit on the loose side of things. That’s with the bolts completely backed out. I hate Stems that need to be spread with a screwdriver. You know you’ve done it too. This definitely is not one of those. In my opinion The stem could use a little more material on the shoulder where it comes in contact with the headset spacer. This is where I think the creaking noise comes from. I have ordered a new Stem. Raceface review coming soon. Some sort of a rating system coming soon.
I grew tired of breaking Shimano Zee calipers. So I went with a set of these Magura Mt5 brakes. I’ve been running them now for five or six months. They’ve been flawless. I run the one piece pads. The magnetic pad retention, reach adjust. It doesn’t get much more basic than that. If you spring for the MT 7’s you get bite adjust. So far I can’t say I’ve needed the bite adjust option. With a well-adjusted caliper the system seems to keep up with Pad ware perfectly. The lever bodies are a little Flexi. That being said they have more breaking power than most people need. I am running 180 mm rotors. I have not experienced any brake fade. Even on a long decent. More than enough power for trials. They feather nicely. Very linear feel. Makes them great for park riding. I would say the stopping power is definitely worth the price you pay.
I purchased them from webcycelery. I love them. The upsweep may seem extreme. They are so comfortable. Extremely stiff. I would definitely buy them again.
I’ve made a few updates to my street park frame. Chain stays are 5 mm shorter. 18° degree bend down to for more foot clearance. This frames a 13.5 with a 22.5 top tube. !00% Made from 100% USA made materials. i used thicker walled tubing throughout the entire frame. For dent resistance and stiffness. Comes in handy riding quarter pipes. Solid BMX drop outs, mid bottom bracket and integrated head tube. . I’m running 3 pegs now. Hang fives, boomerangs and a few other 1980’s flatland tricks are working out just fine. Grids are coming along. i have slowly been pushing my front peg adapter through its paces. so far its working great. The stock 20mm axle and origin 8 hub are holding up just fine. The Manitou Circus fork could care less that i attached a peg to it.
First the frame. Made from True Temper tubing. I made a few changes from the last one. I think its the perfect Street trials/ park bike.
Te fork. The Manitou Circus Expert. I have been riding another brand fork for years. In many different versions travel ect. I have not ridden a Manitou product senince the early 90s. Prices are all over the place but it comes in around $350ish. The 20mm through axel is makes this fork super stiff latterly. Valving super smooth. the detentes are progressively different on compression. The sweeping rebound lever is easy to reach while riding. Im still playing with the bottoming out adjustment.
After a couple hours of riding.the fork is almost broken in. Its predictable compliant and is a looker too. The 120 width hub is the way to go. Makes a better wheel in my opinion. If you make the switch to 120mm spec. be prepared to buy some spokes if you are doing a hub swap with your existing rim. the hub i chose. I was able to reuse the right side spokes on the left of new hub. If moneys tight you can save a couple of bucks if you get lucky.
If you asked me today. would you recommend one of these forks? yes i would. I will let you know in a month or two how its working out.
This was a fun one.With a few exceptions.This was built up with components from a donor bike. That was all Deore components. rebuilt Cannondale Fatty disc headshox . Great urban Mtb.,